On another night, the second course was overburdened: Panko-coated fried shrimp crowding a robust onion broth, with singed cauliflower, curry crème fraîche, black-olive pesto, ginger-marinated tomato, dots of blue cheese, grapefruit … there can be a lot going on. Some compositions resemble mini terrariums, such as a dismantled salad of arugula, peak-season tomato, wayward cubes of mozzarella and crostini with fresh ricotta cheese oozing down its sides their kinship was broken only by a tough spear of prosciutto-wrapped asparagus. And there is no prevailing cuisine: Dishes can bounce from Mexico to Southeast Asia to 'Jewish grandmother,' as Contes says, or all of those in the space of one course. The tasting menu is neither printed nor presented, so diners don’t know what they’re in for until dishes hit the table. The pair met while working with chef Guy Reuge at Mirabelle after opening Mosaic (technically called eatMosaic), they soon ditched a la carte menus to focus five nightly dishes on things they’d pick up at their fishmonger (Setauket Seafood), butcher (Mercep Bros.) and local farms each day.

Over the last 13 years, Contes and his partner, chef Tate Morris, have built a devoted following for a five-course tasting menu that changes every evening. A few sips in and, as if on cue, diners begin pouring in, and Mosaic becomes really loud, really fast.

The bartender slides over a fuchsia drink he’s created that day: vodka, green chartreuse, lime and house grenadine, garnished with rosemary. I worry after him for a second: I hope it's not just a wishful affirmation.īut no one seems too concerned. “We’re about to get really busy,” said Contes. We are the only guests in a place that is otherwise deserted. It's 6:30 on a recent evening, and chef Jonathan Contes is standing in the alluring new bar of Mosaic in a Cubs cap, shorts and an apron.

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